Reelfoot Lake – Western Tennessee.
For a couple days during the July 4th week, I took my kayak to Lake County, Tennessee in the extreme North West reaches of the state. I was in the area to explore cemeteries near the shoreline of Reelfoot Lake. Reelfoot Lake was formed during a succession of earthquakes from late 1811 to the big quake that occurred February 7, 1812.
The Natural Beauty of Reelfoot Lake
Many areas of Reelfoot Lake are swamp-like. Bald Cypress pierce the surface growing skyward 100 feet. I kayaked shallow water beneath the cypress’ darkening canopy. Searching for Water Moccasins and Broad-banded Water Snakes, I felt uneasy fantasizing of my reaction should a snake drop from a tree and hitch a ride in my kayak. I love wildlife in areas like this; Osprey, Eagle, Egret, Turtle, and Dragonfly by the hundreds. My favorite wildlife encounters on this day were the two large beaver dam I found in a far removed remote section of the swamp. As I paddled right up to the 2nd beaver dam, I heard beaver grunting and working and gnawing tree branches inside their den.
After 3 hours paddling alone and without seeing another human soul in the swamp, I decided to turn back in advance of a threatening afternoon thunderstorm. I like to think I have a pretty good sense of direction but the myriad bayous and narrow reedy marshy paths I had explored mishmashed in my memory.
Lost In A Swamp
“Oh no! I’m lost!” As I paddled furiously searching for the boggy opening in the treeline where I launched my kayak early that morning, I heard cracks of thunder immediately behind me. “Where is that opening? Where is my van? I think I recognize that osprey nest. That tree looks familiar. Is that turtle the same turtle I saw this morning? WHERE IS THAT OPENING?“
I paddled for a good 45 minutes toward the direction where I thought I had left my van hours before. Each inlet looked the same as the last inlet. Midsummer heat and sunshine caused algae blooms to fully cover the swamp’s surface. Distinguishing features softened into a continual undulation of never-ending shoreline.
“I’m never going to make it out of this swamp. They’ll have to send a search party but they’ll never find me. I’ll be consumed by the swamp. Devoured by turtles and osprey and water moccasins. I wonder who will play the lead character in the movie they’ll make about this. WHERE IS THAT OPENING?“
With enormous black clouds overhead and raindrops beginning to fall, I had to admit I was lost. My personal stark realization of my inability to find my way out of this endless swamp consumed me with each stroke of my paddle. Heavy in my hands, I laid my paddle across my lap to rest my weary arms. My kayak ground to a halt from friction of the thick…thick surrounding vegetation.
Finding My Way Out
I dipped my hand through the vegetation to make contact with the water below. Expecting refreshing cool, I was met, instead, with emanating heat from the lake’s surface. I didn’t even think what might lie beneath. A giant Alligator Snapping Turtle? A Muskrat with gnarled, sharpened teeth? The Water Moccasin I’d been seeking for hours? Pulling my hand back into my kayak, I reached for my water bottle. I had plenty of fluids left but any ice I had brought with me had long since melted in this blistering July heat.
With reluctance and a final admittance that I could not find my own way out of the swamp, I reached into my dry-sack for my trusty GPS. Luckily, I had set a waypoint of my launch point when I first set out early in the morning. According to the graphic on the electronic map, I was less than 1/2 mile away. A quick paddle through thick mats of aquatic lilies had me back at my launch point in a matter of minutes. “Ah, there’s my van….cool.”
I never did find any Water Moccasins but I sure was happy to be back on dry land.
Off I set out to explore the nearby cemeteries.